The TT in the Audi TT stands for Tourist Trophy which is annual race run on the Isle of Man where a beefed up car was called a "TT". The event usually includes many different types of cars and motorcycles.

Winson answers: From the Audi Website "1909 - Audi Automobilwerke is established in Zwickau In 1909 August Horch had a dispute with the supervisory board of A. Horch & Cie. Motorwagen-Werke AG and as a result, left the company he had begun. Shortly after, on July 16, 1909, he established a second company, Horch Automobil-Werke GmbH, in the same city. Horch lost the ensuing legal dispute over the company same. His solution was to use the Latin translation of his name (which means "hark!"). The new company name, Audiwerke GmbH, became effective on April 25, 1910." - 12/12/2004

Jake's Answer:

I have not seen anyone do this, but I assume it would be possible if you took out the dash and replaced the bulbs or tinted them.

There is no built in way of doing it though.

Peter adds "Maybe you can do this but if i where you i wouldn'd - the reason is the anti theft protection in the dashboard. it is a very sensible system - parting out the dashboard give the computer the information - someone is manipulating (maybe stealing) the vehicle. if this happens you are really in trouble - you will have to tow the vehicle to an Audi dealer - explain to him what happened and then he has to plug in the Audi computer and neuralise the system by a code that comes online from Wolfsburg, Germay via satellite through the Audi computer in your dashboard - so now guess how much trouble this causes and how much money this costs ...." 6/17/2005

BZ Answers:

Yes, it is safe unless you are going over a hundred miles an hour down the road.

The 225 comes with a turbo timer that runs coolant through the turbo after the car has been shut down. The 180 does not have this feature so it best to let it cool down for a minute or so after heavy driving before turning it off.

Gene adds: "If you are using the 180hp TT then yes it would robably be better to get a turbo timer for 'peace of mind' whereas the 225hp does run coolant for the turbo when you turn the car off. several brands are considered good such as apexi pen light turbo timer which is discreet and stylish or Blizt DTT turbo timer which automatically calculates the time needed to cool the turbo down."

YES! The net advice is to buy snow tires or leave it in the garage.

Also recommended is to buy a set of extra wheels so you can swap between the snows and the summer tires more easily.

Everything you need is in the trunk / hatch. You need to jack up the car on a jack point, remove the tire (there is a little device to remove the plastic lugnut caps) and replace it with the spare.

There is also a large plastic bag in your kit you can put the old tire in to save your interior.

More detailed instructions are in your manual.

1. Take the valet key, put it into the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position, just prior to starting the car.

2. Roll down the driver's side window (not required, but a good idea in case there's a problem).

3. Exit the car and close the door.

4. With a second key, physically lock the doors (don't use a remote).

5. Take the first remote to be programmed, press one of the buttons and the lights will flash once. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. That first transmitter is now programmed.

6. Lock the door again (physically) with the key, (not the remote).

7. Press one of the buttons twice, the lights will flash twice. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. The second transmitter is now programmed.

For a third transmitter press the button 3 times and for a fourth press 4 times.

Paul ads: "Make sure that to test the newly program remotes, the original key is removed from the ignition. Someone might be a bit frustrated trying to test it with it still in 'program' mode." - 2/6/2004

Generally the TT can get about 24 in the city and up to 30 on the highway. Some have pushed it as far as 32 MPG in long steady trips.

Christopher adds "Just bought a 2000 TT and drove it on a 1,700 mile trip and consistently got 33 mpg - all on the interstate going a little above the speed limit." 4/7/2005

Sorry to say it is not.

The TT does have a turbo, but it is a single turbo engine. Most people confuse "TT" with "Twin Turbo" when it really stands for "Tourist Trophy".

Josh updates: "My girlfriend was hit on by a guy who said he had a twin turbo audi. I immediately think early S4. Unfortunately this genius who happens to be a lawyer thinks his TT is a twin turbo. I say line his "twin turbo" TT up next to my GTI with a single bumped up turbo. To tell you the truth I have never heard of a guy who seriously hits on a girl and uses his TT as a tool. People like this should go back to driving Monte Carlos and transmaro birds. " - 1/15/2006

Peter adds "It is not a twin turbo - but that is not nessesary. By just chipping the 225 hosre TT you can get 270 hore and topspeed of 165 mph and if you really want to have power there are kits with different turbo chargers available up to 360 horse - those kits are still "autobahn approved" and the car will have a livetime of mor than 250,000 miles" 6/17/2005

Only if you want it to be! :)

The TT is gender neutral. It has a strong stance, piercing eyes and fierce speed but a nice curvy buttocks, a gentle drive and is certainly 'cute'.

A quick look at the AudiWorld forum, though, you will see that most TT owners are male (and happily so) but there a number of much loved and highly sought after TT women.

Only thing that is gender specific is the person in the drivers seat.

You can get an after market sunroof put on your TT? There are a few companies that do it and there are a few owners who have done it with much success.

Audi TT Car Club Photos

Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 15W-50 is especially suitable for high-performance cars, particularly hot-running or heavily loaded vehicles and special high-tech imports."

Flash Point, ASTM D 92, °C (°F):
0w-30
238 (460)

5w-30
235 (455)

10w-30
243 (470)

15w-50
245 (473)

Flash Point, ASTM D 93, °C (°F):
0w-30
211 (412)

5w-30
210(410)

10w-30
221 (430)

15w-50
223 (433)

5W-30 has the lowest flash point of them all(bad). 15w-50 has the highest(good). Seems to me like 0w-30 would be better to use before 5w-30

Here is Mobil's comparsion of the 4 types:
Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30:
Flow at -54°C (-65°F); pump at temperatures lower than similar SAE viscosity-grade conventional oils. Save gasoline, exceed newest Energy Conserving Requirements.

Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 15W-50:
Flows at -48°C (-55°F), pumps at temperatures as low as many conventional SAE 5W-30 oils. Provides superior high-temperature protection for high-performance and high-revving cars.

(Looks like I can run 15W-50 all year round)

All Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Series products:
Provide outstanding protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged car and light truck engines.
Provide excellent engine protection during high-temperature operation.
Extend engine life by reducing wear.
Allow faster cold starts.
Help prevent oil breakdown; keep engines cleaner.
Are compatible with conventional oils.
Provide maximum reserve capacity in a motor oil.
Reduce oil consumption.

AUDI DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) OVERVIEW

The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) overview is organized according to VAG and SAE (OBD-II) trouble
codes.

MIL Switching Conditions
A=MIL Triggered on first occurrence
B=MIL Triggered on second occurrence
C=Non Emission related Fault - Service light only
D=Non Emission Fault - No warning light

DTC (VAG) DTC (SAE) MALFUNCTION TEXT (Component Number) MIL CONDITION
16485 P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit - Range/Performance A
16486 P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit - Low input A
16487 P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit - High Input. May be due to a low battery if found with
17988 (P1580) A
16496 P0112 IAT Sensor - Temp High - Circuit Low - G42 A
16497 P0113 IAT Sensor - Temp Low - Circuit High - G42 A
16500 P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit - Range/Performance Problem A
16501 P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit - Low Input (High Temp) A
16502 P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit - High Input (Low Temp) A
16504 P0120 Throttle Position Sensor A - Circuit Malfunction A
16505 P0121 Throttle Position Sensor A - Circuit - Performance Problem - Out of Range A
16506 P0122 Throttle Position Sensor A Circuit - Low Voltage Input A
16507 P0123 Throttle Position Sensor A Circuit - High Voltage Input A
16509 P0125 Cooling System - Temp Too Low to Enter Closed Loop - G62 B
16514 P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit - Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) A
16515 P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit - Voltage Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) B
16516 P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit - High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) A
16517 P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit - Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1) B
16518 P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit - No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1) A
16519 P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit - Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) A
16520 P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit - Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) A
16521 P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit - Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2) B
16522 P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit - High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2) A
16524 P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit - Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2) B
16525 P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit - Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) A
16534 P0150 O2 Sensor Circuit - Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) A
16536 P0152 O2 Sensor Circuit - High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1) A
16537 P0153 O2 Sensor Circuit - Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
16538 P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit - No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1) A
16539 P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit - Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) A
16540 P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit - Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2) A
16542 P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit - High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2) A
16543 P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit - Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
16544 P0160 O2 Sensor Circuit - No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2) A
16545 P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit - Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2) A
16554 P0170 Fuel Trim - Malfunction (Bank 1) A
16555 P0171 Fuel Trim - System Lean (Bank 1) B
16556 P0172 Fuel Trim - System Rich (Bank 1) B
16557 P0173 Fuel Trim - Malfunction (Bank 2) B
16558 P0174 Fuel Trim - System Lean (Bank 2) B
16559 P0175 Fuel Trim - System Rich (Bank 2) B
16684 P0300 Random Misfire Detected - Any Cylinder B
16685 P0301 Cylinder #1 - Misfire Detected A or B / Blink
16686 P0302 Cylinder #2 - Misfire Detected A or B / Blink
16687 P0303 Cylinder #3 - Misfire Detected A or B / Blink
16688 P0304 Cylinder #4 - Misfire Detected A or B / Blink
16689 P0305 Cylinder #5 - Misfire Detected A or B / Blink
16690 P0306 Cylinder #6 - Misfire Detected A or B / Blink
16691 P0307 Cylinder #7 - Misfire Detected A or B / Blink
16692 P0308 Cylinder #8 - Misfire Detected A or B / Blink
16706 P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit - No Signal A or B / Blink
16711 P0327 Knock Sensor #1 Circuit - Low Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) A
16716 P0332 Knock Sensor #2 Circuit - Low Input (Bank 2) A
16721 P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit - Low Input A
16725 P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit - Out of Range/Performance A
16784 P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Flow Malfunction B
16785 P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Flow Insufficient B
16786 P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Flow Excessive B
16795 P0411 Secondary Air Injection System (B2) - Incorrect Flow B
16806 P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency - Below Threshold (Bank 1) B
16816 P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency - Below Threshold (Bank 2) B
16824 P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System (EVAP) - Purge Malfunction B
16825 P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System - Incorrect Purge Flow A
16826 P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System - Leak Detected (small leak) B
16836 P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System - Pressure Sensor - Low Input B
16837 P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System - Pressure Sensor - High Input
16839 P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System - Leak Detected (gross leak)
16845 P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit - Range/Performance B
16885 P0501 Vehicle Speed Sensor - Range/Performance A
16890 P0506 Idle Control Module - RPM Lower Than Expected A
16891 P0507 Idle Control Module - RPM Higher Than Expected A
16894 P0510 Throttle Position Sensor - Closed Switch B
16989 P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (EPROM) Error B
17090 P0706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit - Range/Performance A
17091 P0707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit - Low Input D
17509 P1101 O2 Sensor Circuit (B1-S1) Voltage Too Low/Air Leak D
17510 P1102 O2 Sensor Circuit Heating Circuit (B1-S1) - Short to B+ A
17511 P1103 O2 Sensor Circuit Heating Circuit (B1-S1) - Output Too Low A
17512 P1104 O2 Sensor Circuit (B1-S2) Voltage Too Low - Air Leak A
17513 P1105 O2 Sensor Circuit Heating Circuit (B1-S2) -Short to B+ A
17514 P1106 O2 Sensor Circuit (B2-S1) Voltage Too Low - Air Leak A
17515 P1107 O2 Sensor Circuit Heating Circuit (B2-S1) - Short to B+ A
17516 P1108 O2 Sensor Circuit Heating Circuit (B2-S1) - Output too Low A
17517 P1109 O2 Sensor Circuit (B2-S2) Voltage Too Low - Air Leak A
17518 P1110 O2 Sensor Circuit Heating Circuit (B2-S2) - Short to B+ A
17535 P1127 Long Term Fuel Trim - System too Rich (Bank 1) A
17536 P1128 Long Term Fuel Trim - System too Lean (Bank 1) B
17609 P1201 Cylinder #1 Fuel Injector Circuit - Electrical Malfunction B
17610 P1202 Cylinder #2 Fuel Injector Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17611 P1203 Cylinder #3 Fuel Injector Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17612 P1204 Cylinder #4 Fuel Injector Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17613 P1205 Cylinder #5 Fuel Injector Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17614 P1206 Cylinder #6 Fuel Injector Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17615 P1207 Cylinder #7 Fuel Injector Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17616 P1208 Cylinder #8 Fuel Injector Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17621 P1213 Cylinder #1 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to B+ A
17622 P1214 Cylinder #2 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to B+ A
17623 P1215 Cylinder #3 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to B+ A
17624 P1216 Cylinder #4 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to B+ A
17625 P1217 Cylinder #5 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to B+ A
17626 P1218 Cylinder #6 Fuel Injector Circuit - Shod to B+ A
17627 P1219 Cylinder #7 Fuel Injector Circuit - Shod to B+ A
17628 P1220 Cylinder #8 Fuel Injector Circuit - Shod to B+ A
17633 P1225 Cylinder #1 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to Ground A
17634 P1226 Cylinder #2 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to Ground A
17635 P1227 Cylinder #3 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to Ground A
17636 P1228 Cylinder #4 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to Ground A
17637 P1229 Cylinder #5 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to Ground A
17638 P1230 Cylinder #6 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to Ground A
17639 P1231 Cylinder #7 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to Ground A
17640 P1232 Cylinder #8 Fuel Injector Circuit - Short to Ground A
17645 P1237 Cylinder #1 Fuel Injector Circuit - Open Circuit A
17646 P1238 Cylinder #2 Fuel Injector Circuit - Open Circuit A
17647 P1239 Cylinder #3 Fuel Injector Circuit - Open Circuit A
17648 P1240 Cylinder #4 Fuel Injector Circuit - Open Circuit A
17649 P1241 Cylinder #5 Fuel Injector Circuit - Open Circuit A
17650 P1242 Cylinder #6 Fuel Injector Circuit - Open Circuit A
17651 P1243 Cylinder #7 Fuel Injector Circuit - Open Circuit A
17652 P1244 Cylinder #8 Fuel Injector Circuit - Open Circuit A
17656 P1250 Fuel Level Too Low A
17733 P1325 Cylinder #1 Knock Control Limit Attained D
17734 P1326 Cylinder #2 Knock Control Limit Attained D
17735 P1327 Cylinder #3 Knock Control Limit Attained D
17736 P1328 Cylinder #4 Knock Control Limit Attained D
17737 P1329 Cylinder #5 Knock Control Limit Attained D
17738 P1330 Cylinder #6 Knock Control Limit Attained D
17739 P1331 Cylinder #7 Knock Control Limit Attained D
17740 P1332 Cylinder #8 Knock Control Limit Attained D
17747 P1339 Crankshaft Position/Engine Speed Sensors Cross connected D
17748 P1340 Camshaft/Crankshaft Position Sensors (B2) - Out of Sequence A
17749 P1341 Ignition Coil Power Output Stage #1 - Short to Ground A
17751 P1343 Ignition Coil Power Output Stage #2 - Short to Ground A
17753 P1345 Ignition Coil Power Output Stage #3 - Short to Ground A
17799 P1391 Camshaft Position Sensor (B2) - Short to Ground A
17800 P1392 Camshaft Position Sensor Open (B2) - Short to B+ A
17801 P1393 Ignition Coil Power Output Stage #1 - Electrical Malfunction A
17802 P1394 Ignition Coil Power Output Stage #2 - Electrical Malfunction A
17803 P1395 Ignition Coil Power Output Stage #3 - Electrical Malfunction A
17804 P1396 Engine Speed Sensor - Missing Tooth A
17808 P1400 EGR Valve Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17809 P1401 EGR Valve Circuit - Power Stage Short to Ground A
17810 P1402 EGR Valve Circuit - Short to B+ A
17815 P1407 EGR Temperature Sensor - Signal too Low A
17816 P1408 EGR Temperature Sensor - Signal too High B
17817 P1409 Tank Ventilation Valve - Electrical Malfunction B
17818 P1410 Tank Ventilation Valve - Short to B+ A
17819 P1411 Secondary Air Injection System (B2) - Restricted Flow A
17822 P1414 Secondary Air Injection System (B2) - Leak Detected B
17826 P1418 Fuel Level Sensor - Signal too High B
17828 P1420 Secondary Air Injection System Control Module - Electrical Malfunction
17829 P1421 Secondary Air Injection System Control Valve Circuit - Short to Ground A
17830 P1422 Secondary Air Injection System Control Valve Circuit - Short to B+ A
17831 P1423 Secondary Air Injection System (B1) - Flow too Low A
17832 P1424 Secondary Air Injection System (B1) - Leak Detected B
17833 P1425 Tank Ventilation Valve - Short to Ground A
17834 P1426 Tank Ventilation Valve - Open Circuit A
17842 P1434 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Relay Circuit - Short to B+ A
17844 P1436 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Relay Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17848 P1440 EGR Valve Circuit - Power Stage Open A
17858 P1450 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Relay Circuit - Short to B+ A
17859 P1451 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Relay Circuit - Short to Ground A
17860 P1452 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Relay Circuit - Open Circuit A
17878 P1470 EVAP Emission Control System L.D.P Circuit - Malfunction A
17879 P1471 EVAP Emission Control System L.D.P. Circuit - Short to B+ A
17883 P1475 EVAP Emission Control System L.D.P. - Malfunction Signal Circuit open A
17884 P1476 EVAP Emission Control System L.D.P. - Malfunction/Insufficient Vacuum A
17908 P1500 Fuel Pump Relay Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17910 P1502 Fuel Pump Relay Circuit - Short to B+ A
17912 P1504 Intake Air System Bypass Air Determined A
17913 P1505 CTP Switch not Closing - Open Circuit A
17914 P1506 CTP Switch not Opening - Short to Ground A
17917 P1509 IAC Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17918 P1510 IAC Circuit - Short to B+ A
17919 P1511 Intake Manifold Changeover Valve Circuit - Electrical Malfunction A
17920 P1512 Intake Manifold Changeover Valve Circuit - Short to B+ D
17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer - Signal too Low D
17952 P1544 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer - Signal too High A
P1545
P1559
17988 P1580 Throttle Actuator (B1) Fault - May be caused by low battery if found with 16487 (P0103) A
17990 P1582 Idle Adaption at Limit B
18008 P1600 Power Supply (B+) Terminal 15 - Low Voltage B
18010 P1602 Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 - Low Voltage D
18014 P1606 Rough Road Spec. Engine Torque ABS-SG - Electrical Malfunction A
18019 P1611 MIL Call-up Circuit/Transmission Control Module - Short to Ground D
18020 P1612 ECM - Incorrectly Coded A
18021 P1613 MIL Call-up - Circuit Open or Short to B+ A
65535 P0603 Control Unit Failure or Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error or Power
Failure to Control Unit or Bad Ground Contacts or No Faults Recorded (If MIL Not Illuminated) A
65535 No Faults Recorded (If MIL Not Illuminated) A
65535 Control Unit Faulty (In Some Systems)
P0217 Temp Light - Engine Hot A
P0218 Temp Light - Transaxle Hot D+Temp Lamp
P0326 Knock Sensor - Constant Knock D+Temp Lamp
P0351 Ignition - Faulty D
P0352 Ignition - Faulty D
P0420 Converter - Low Efficiency D
P0443 EVAP Purge - Circuit Fault A
P0500 VSS Sensor - No Signal D
P0560 Battery Voltage - Out of Range A
P0561 Battery Voltage - Unstable D
P0562 Battery Voltage - Low D
P0563 Battery Voltage - High D
P0565 Cruise Control - Circuit Fault D
P0571 Brake Switch - Circuit Fault D
P0572 Brake Switch - Low Voltage D
P0573 Brake Switch - High Voltage D
P0600 PCM - No Serial Data D
P0601 EPROM - Fault A
P0602 PCM Program - Fault A
P0604 PCM RAM Memory - Fault A
P0606 PCM Processor - Fault A
P1782 Engine/Transmission Data Electrical Connection Ignition Intervention. Also check for loose ECM
power relay. A

TT Buyer's Demographic (2000):

- median age: 40
- median household income: $100,000 with a signifigant percentage above
- male: 70%
- college grad: 70%
- married: 60%
- households with children: 20%

Key competitors:
Z3 Roadster and Coupe
Honda S2000
Mercedes SLK
Porsche Boxster

"Buyers will be self-confident. We'll see opinion leaders and unconventional individualists. These are people whose pro-active approach to life would be enhanced by the sporting character and individuality of the TT."

From the article linked below:

"The higher-output 165-kW (225-hp) engine uses a high compression ratio (8.9:1) for a turbocharged unit. The 1.8-L engine was extensively modified to attain the higher output reliably. The pistons, connecting rods, and big-end bearings were uprated to accommodate the higher combustion pressures. The double-mass flywheel and clutch were modified to match the greater performance. The intake manifold, turbocharger, and exhaust manifold are new.

A Type K04 turbocharger forces air into the combustion chamber via two charge-air intercoolers. Compared to the less powerful 132-kW unit, a modified airflow path, together with a larger air cleaner, ensures that the air reaching the engine has a temperature only about 30¡C higher than ambient. This 80% charge-air intercooler efficiency keeps the engine supplied with an optimum flow of oxygen-rich air. Maximum boost pressure at the intake manifold can reach 200 kPa (29 lb/in2).

The engine's torque curve is impressive, with 280 N•m (207 lb•ft) available from 2200 to 5500 rpm. With it, the TT can accelerate from 0 to 100 km/h (62 mi/h) in 6.4 s and has a top speed in the region of 243 km/h (150 mi/h). Flexibility is also impressive, needing only 11.2 s to accelerate from 60 to 120 km/h (37 to 75 mi/h) in fifth gear. The TT equipped with this engine and quattro all-wheel drive has a total fuel consumption of 9.2 L/100 km, according to the EU 93/116 test.

The "lower-output" 132-kW (180-bhp) engine still manages a specific output of 100 hp/L. It uses a relatively smaller KKK Type K03 turbocharger, its lower moment of inertia allowing the engine to respond more rapidly to accelerator pedal movements. Boost pressure builds more quickly for reduced "turbo lag." Torque at lower engine speeds is aided by optimized throttle-butterfly and boost-pressure settings. Audi says the turbocharger and five valves per cylinder layout work ideally together, since the potential of the turbocharger can be used to the fullest extent by the large total cross-sectional area of the valves in each cylinder.

An even higher compression ratio of 9.5:1 ensures high efficiency and low fuel consumption. According to the EU 93/116 standard, total fuel consumption for the front-wheel-drive version is 8.0 L/100 km. Torque of at least 235 N•m (173 lb•ft) is available from 1950 to 5000 rpm. Front-wheel-drive and quattro TTs equipped with this engine can accelerate from 0 to 100 km/h (62 mi/h) in 7.4 s, while the top speed of front-wheel drive at 228 km/h (142 mi/h) is slightly greater than the 226 km/h (140 mi/h) of the quattro model. In fourth gear, the 132-kW TT Coupe can accelerate from 60 to 120 km/h (37 to 75 mi/h) in 9.8 seconds. "

http://www.sae.org/automag/newenginereview/audi.htm

<p>The Audi TT like most cars, will last as long as it is cared for. There are Audi TT owners out there with over 300,000 miles and going.</p>

The big obvious ones are to look at price and power. The are both great cars (obviously, they are TTs after all) but the 225 will add more power in terms of torque and horsepower.

If you can handle the price, go for the 225. If the extra couple of grand is too much to handle, the 180 is a great car and with a chip can perform just as well as the 225 (ask Larry).

Winston answers: "Official factory shop manuals are available from Bentley Publishers (link below) as CD-ROMs or web-subscriptions. Other manuals and literature available also." - 4/26/2004

Richard adds: "I ordered the manual from Audi last May/2006 and from Bentley 9/2006. They are still back ordered. Doesn't look to me like Audi is going to make anymore manuals... If so - wonder why they don't just put it on the internet? It is a struggle not having a manual!!!" 1/6/2006

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/

Steven answers: "Yes, this will work. I changed the batteries in my remote and the program was lost. Follow the steps in the other program. Substitute one or your remote keys in the ignition for the valey key." - 4/18/04

Jake adds: "Use the link below for the original instructions." 4/19/04

I will try and answer everyone's question on whether chipping does or does not void the Audi warranty. That is a tough one to answer. Everyone is told something different depending on who they talk to. This is what I have been told and what others have been told. I have since learned otherwise and let me explain.

Everyone is told by his or her dealer that chipping voids the warranty. Some of us have been told that doing ANYTHING can and will void your warranty; I have mentioned some of this before!

For those that don't know; I have been told that all of the below has voided my warranty in one way or another:

- Changing my stereo head unit this affects the electronics in the car!

- My entire stereo, not just the head unit same as above, plus I added wiring into the car that is not OEM.

- H&R Sport Springs changes the ride and handling, could affect
bushings.

- Borla Exhaust could damage the turbo.

- AP Racing Brakes could affect the ABS system and other components

I questioned all of the above and had very good arguments, but I realized that I was dealing with a couple of idiots at a dealership on Long Island. The sport springs really pissed me off though seeing as how Audi sells Eibach sport springs and the dealerships install them! That would be too easy to win in court!Some of the items I have since installed were not in the car at the time of one of my run-ins with this particular dealer. They didn't know I have a Garrett Stage II Chip; I put my stock ECU back in before going in for service. Some dealers actually sell and install various chips, I have heard of MTM chips being installed at dealers, APR, AutoThority and even Garrett. This seems to be up to the dealer. The dealer is also taking a very big risk selling a chip and then covering any damage that can occur under the warranty. The one thing that I find disheartening is that the dealers are selling the chips to customers, even at the time of new car purchase and never discuss with the owner what happens if the car breaks and the chip was the cause of the damage. From what I have heard it is possible that a dealer could lose their franchise if they were caught, unless of course the dealer is very large and high volume, like a Hoffmann (#3 in US Sales) in Hartford, CT, or a Biener (#1 in US Sales) in Great Neck, NY, just an example of large dealers, not necessarily ones that sell chips. Like I said it is a dealer-by-dealer thing. You can try and find people that use your dealer and see if they know if the dealer is “chip friendly”. You can ask your dealer and I would begin by asking your salesman, and then ask either the parts manager or the Service Manager. These people will usually be honest with you. Don’t admit to the dealer that you have a chip; if they are not friendly you might have screwed yourself. This is a game and you need to know how to play it properly.I have spoken to 3 different AoA Area Executives. I spoke to all 3 gentlemen about chips, but didn’t mention them specifically, they knew what I was asking and I knew how they had to answer. Two of the men each said that AoA would not cover the car if the chip causes the damage. They each also said that it is very difficult to prove whether a chip caused the damage, but once Audi
determines that a car has a chip, that it will be carefully watched for all warranty repairs. They each encouraged a spare ECU. One of the men I talked to at great length and spoke of the chip. He even drove my car and said how much faster it was than a 225TTQ, he was even surprised how well the drive-by-wire performed. This was in April 2000 before the 225’s had come out! He was very surprised that the chip is not noticeable except for the added power. He didn’t have a problem with the chip and said that he would not bust chipped car owners
chops if a chip were found in a car. Unfortunately I would rather not say who these men are, but some of you know who I am talking about and can vouch for these men.

The other AoA Area Executive I asked about what it takes to void your warranty. He said that the entire warranty COULD NOT be voided! He said it is not possible to void an entire warranty. What he said was, and this makes perfect sense, whatever part you replace with aftermarket parts, loses its Audi warranty coverage! I then said since I have a Borla exhaust Audi will not cover my exhaust anymore and he said exactly! I asked if my exhaust would have any bearing on another part of the cars warranty and he told me NO. So, in turn if
you chip your car, the ECU has now lost its warranty, but anything the ECU touches, which is EVERYTHING, is still covered by Audi! He told me that Audi changed its policy back in February 2000 and it is slowly trickling down to the dealers around the country. They are trying to encourage Audi owners to modify
their cars and not fear “losing their warranties”. He said this is what used to be the policy, but they realized that that was too confrontational and needed to be
changed. AoA has been hounded by quite a few dealers throughout the country about bringing into the US the quattro GMbH tuning brand. For those that don’t know this, Audi has a separate tuning company not unlike ///M Motorsports for BMW and AMG for Mercedes Benz. For Audi the company is quattro GMbH and they actually have stand-alone dealerships throughout Germany, if not all of
Europe. I know that my dealer on Long Island is hoping to get a franchise and are building a new building in anticipation of just such an occurrence. When/if
this happens it will mean that Audi will be providing the tuning to our Audi’s and covering it under warranty, we will no longer have to worry about “losing our
warranty”.

No matter what AoA says, the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act still protects consumers. It is Audi’s responsibility to PROVE in a court of law that any change you make to your car is the EXACT cause of the failure in question. The law is
on the side of the consumer and protects us; it does not protect the
manufacturer. We don’t have to prove our modification was not at fault, they have to prove that it was at fault. That is very hard for them to do and they know
it. This is why dealerships resort to scare tactics in some cases hoping that the consumer will blink and not modify their cars. Just because you run higher boost
and the turbo blows, does not mean the chip caused the failure. Don’t forget all of us have driven with a defective Diverter Valve since the car was sold! That could just as easily have weakened the turbo and the added boost was just the
final straw to put it over the edge.

The warranty issue is not 100% cut and dry. That is why I tell everyone to get a spare ECU. Even with the APR EMCS, AoA can still pull out the ECU and ship it
off to Germany as they did with a TT owners ECU. The cam broke in their
225TTR. The person swapped out the MTM ECU that was in the car and put in their spare stock ECU before Audi Roadside towed them to the Dealer! Smart owner! That is why I have always carried my spare ECU with me at all times! :)

I hope this helped, even a little.

Yes & No.

A "chip" is just a computer chip that controls all the of the functions of the engine. Most chips do minor tweaking to the timings, fuel mixtures, etc to get the most out of the engine. That, in itself, does not hurt the engine.

Some chips though, remove the redline limit, meaning you can now rev your TT over 7,000 RPM. This could hurt your engine in the long term.

Chris answers: "Had my 225 fitted with the Revo mapping; made big difference in the passing capability. Shocked a 911 and WRX on passing. Even better if you use the high octane gas. Petrol consumption improved as well." - 2/1/2005

Larkin adds: "Also look into apr tuning at goapr.com, they make great quality Audi, VW, and Porsche tuning products, even an upgraded turbo kit good for 360 some odd horsepower for under seven grand (talk about a sleeper) - 2/8/2006

Nathan ads "My TT 2001 is 225hp I got revo on my tt. Made a BIG difference on power all the way around. I checked up on other people chipping but revo plugs into your computer and reprograms it. You can't scan it so no dealer will no. it also changes your rpm to tap 7200. I got remus cat-back and Air-box. mine puts down 301 at the wheels and 310trq. In the 1/8 mile mine does 8.5 at 87mph. Revo all the way." - 5/22/2006

TTGuys adds "I also have it, and the feature I like is the heaps of torque, sometime when I am cruising on the highway, and want to accelerate, which I do, and then want to change from 5th gear to 6th, and realize I was in 6th gear already. I almost never use max HP, but love the torque." 2/22/2005

Your biggest bang for the buck is going to be a chip (see chipping) folled by exhaust, tires and ending up with things like brakes, suspension and a new turbo.

Henry adds "I have a 2001 coupe 225. I like to share my experience with fellow TTers. I have installed a Neuspeed chip and I according to them a 40 horse power and 40 foot lb of torque. I can feel the difference the chip made and it's quite substantial. Specially on the highway over 75 MPH, the accelerating is much stronger than stock and the chip doesn't seem to harm the fuel consumption. Next thing I took off the factory air filter and the plastic box and connect a cone type air filter to where the old air filter box connects. It is alot nosier, you can hear the intake of air and the blow offs with every shift and accelerating. You can really hear the breathing of the engine and sounds really cool to me. I have also noticed some gain in performance. Then I have a stainless exhaust custom made at a local muffler shop. Starts from the cat back with only a resonator. My car sounds really amazing now without being too loud. It makes a nice low rumbling at idle and it is louder accelerating but it's not louder crusing at a stedy speed. I noticed quite a jump in performance, whereas before the exhaust the power increase with the Neuspeed chip is good but then it goes flat after 4500 RPM. Now with the cone air filter and the exhaust, the power is up quite a bit and it has more top end power. Acceleration is alot more intense than stock. 0-60 is 5 seconds, part of the reason is due to the new Chip, I don't have to shift to 3rd gear before reaching 60. The cost of the mods, Neuspeed chip = 600, cone air filter = 25, custom exhaust = 475 totalling $1,100 which I think is a steal for the gain, without harming the engine and retain the longevity and reliability of the engine." - 5/9/2005

Yes & No.

A "chip" is just a computer chip that controls all the of the functions of the engine. Most chips do minor tweaking to the timings, fuel mixtures, etc to get the most out of the engine. That, in itself, does not hurt the engine.

Some chips though, remove the redline limit, meaning you can now rev your TT over 7,000 RPM. This could hurt your engine in the long term.

Chris answers: "Had my 225 fitted with the Revo mapping; made big difference in the passing capability. Shocked a 911 and WRX on passing. Even better if you use the high octane gas. Petrol consumption improved as well." - 2/1/2005

Larkin adds: "Also look into apr tuning at goapr.com, they make great quality Audi, VW, and Porsche tuning products, even an upgraded turbo kit good for 360 some odd horsepower for under seven grand (talk about a sleeper) - 2/8/2006

Nathan ads "My TT 2001 is 225hp I got revo on my tt. Made a BIG difference on power all the way around. I checked up on other people chipping but revo plugs into your computer and reprograms it. You can't scan it so no dealer will no. it also changes your rpm to tap 7200. I got remus cat-back and Air-box. mine puts down 301 at the wheels and 310trq. In the 1/8 mile mine does 8.5 at 87mph. Revo all the way." - 5/22/2006

TTGuys adds "I also have it, and the feature I like is the heaps of torque, sometime when I am cruising on the highway, and want to accelerate, which I do, and then want to change from 5th gear to 6th, and realize I was in 6th gear already. I almost never use max HP, but love the torque." 2/22/2005

I have seen a large range of numbers for 0-60 times and here they are.

Best - Worst : Model
6.9 - 7.4 : 180 Coupe
7.0 - 8.5 : 180 Roadster
5.9 - 7.0 : 225 Coupe
6.2 - 7.4 : 225 Roadster

I am sure that if you dump the clutch at 4300 RPM you can hit the lower numbers.

Thanks to Bob for the fast vs quick update.

BZ Answers:

Tires should last between 10,000 and 30,000 miles depending on the use and type of tire.

Since performance tires are made of softer rubber, they wear quicker so you will not get the same wear as a pair on a Honda Accord. Also, tires are sports cars seem to be used a lot harder, which we can't imagine. :)

Read up on the tires before you buy them, see what others are getting for performance and wear and buy accordingling.

John adds: "I have a 3.2 DSG in the UK and my tyres are about 75% worn after 15000 miles. Most of my driving is long distance." - 5/10/2005

Jenn adds "Putting fresh tires on the car will not resolve the alignment if it is off. Caster (usually factory preset), camber and toe must be reset... also, I find that my low profile Potenza's on 17" rims need constant tire pressure attention...If you aren't checking tire pressure at least once a week, this could be why your tire(s)has(have)worn unevenly..." - 12/9/2004

This is under serious debate so there is no clear answer. A lot of people, though, swear by MTM with its relationship to Audi.

Zak adds: "APR (Audi Performance Re-engineering) makes excellent hi-performance chips dedicated for Audi's as well, gave my TT-225 an extra 42HP for around $500."

Nathan adds "Revo the only way to go. 225hp-265hp torque 207-284 that is a big difference. also its not scannable if your scared." - 5/22/2006

Jaks adds "My brother in law is german an he lives near cologne - he went to mtm and they tryed to optimise his TT - TWICE without success ... after that the put back the orignal software to the computer and they didin't charge him anything ....

there are hundrets of chip tuners in germany - but there are less than ten in whole europe witch are really good.

one of the best is Thorsten Wimmer in Solingen, Germany (www.wimmer-rst.de)

he is maybe the only one who has realistic horse and torque values advertised." 6/17/2005

Utilizing Jim T's math and dyno data from Garrett, supplied by John S, I went through the exercise of generating 'walls' of RPM
& torque numbers for the TT 180 engine. Initially the goal was to determine optimum performance up-shift points (read as 'Drag
Race') through the gears. I confirmed through Audi USA the following gear ratios (which are NOT published in either their slick
sales brochure, nor in the owner's manual):
1st: 3.3; 2nd: 1.944; 3rd: 1.308; 4th: 1.034; 5th: 0.838
As described by Jim T (1/26/2K), there is a theoretical rev point at which the wheel torque loss across an up-shift can be
equalized(wheel torque loss at zero). I call this 'torque unity.'

SHIFT TORQUE UNITY RPMS (approx.)
----------- ---------------------------
1>2 unavailable at or below 6600 (31 lb. loss)
2>3 6475
3>4 5980
4>5 5920

Two posters opined on this matter in less empirical terms. Ted's (1/25/2K) seat-of-the-pants experience suggested 1>2 @ 4K; 2>3
@ 5K; 3>4 @ 5.5K; and 4>5 @ 'RED.' Ted's version translates into the 'walls of data' as:

TED'S RPM RPMS DROP TO TORQUE LOSS
----------------------------------------
1>2 4K 2360 226 lbs.
2>3 5K 3360 81 lbs.
3>4 5.5K 4350 16 lbs.
4>5 'RED' 5350 passed thru 'unity' @ ~5920

Marius B's post of 1/26/2K recommended a 5.8K shift point, with a predicted drop to 4K in the next gear:

MARIUS' RPM RPMS DROP TO TORQUE LOSS
-----------------------------------------
1>2 5.8K 3417 110 lbs.
2>3 5.8K 3903 43 lbs.
3>4 5.8K 4585 6 lbs.
4>5 5.8K 4700 2.75 lbs.

Although this thread began as a performance optimizing investigation/validation, addressed more directly at the 'need for speed'
group, I dove into the exercise with an additional agenda. My opportunities -- combined with good judgement and semi-balanced
sensibilities -- for using this knowledge in my small midwestern town -- of flying away from a stop sign at 5K, seeking the 'unity'
torque loss shift points -- are minimal. So, I asked, what are the brackets of sensible and judicious shifting in the day-to-day
driving of my TT, verses chasing the performance optimum? I've divided my thoughts on this into three groups: 'day-to-day' --
safe & conservative -- the cops could watch you wheel through these and not bat an eye; 'fun' and marginally visceral -- makes one
feel some G's and sneaks a peek at torque unity; and 'I wanna race' -- let's push the envelope of the stock 180 TT.

=1>2=
DAY-2-DAY
Get out of this gear soon -- it's too low... shift away before 4K, RPMs drop to ~2350 in 2nd and torque loss is about 225 lbs.
FUN
Run it up to 5900, RPMs drop to 3480 in 2nd, torque loss is under 100 lbs., and you've probably exceeded all reasonable city
speed limits.
RACE
Redline for a great 'hole-shot,' slidin' the clutch at start-up (see Marius B's post of 1/26/2K).

=2>3=
DAY-2-DAY
With data saying 3684 equals 30 mph in 2nd gear, try 4100 where RPMs should drop to ~2760 in 3rd and torque loss is under 100
lbs. I sure like this gear...it speaks to the seat of my pants...so for
FUN
Run it up to 6K where RPMs should drop to ~4035 in 3rd and torque loss is a reasonable 30 lbs.
RACE
Pushing it to ~6475 hits torque unity and RPMs in 3rd should drop to ~4350.

=3>4=
DAY-2-DAY
This one is difficult for me since one can move around town all day in 3rd with this car and look law abiding and feel and sound
good at the same time. I'm experimenting with a range of 3600-3900, with 4th RPMs dropping to the range of 2850-3080, and
torque loss at 45-39.5 lbs. respectively.
FUN
At 5500, RPMs should drop to ~4350 in 4th and torque loss is about 16 lbs. This agrees with Ted's suggestion, and we're probably
exceeding all interstate speed limits by this time!
RACE
Torque unity is at ~5980 with a 4th gear drop to ~4720 revs.

=4>5=
DAY-2-DAY
HAH -- how FAST do you wanna go? We know ~2700 gets us 60 mph in 5th and my TT likes to cruise @ 80 mph under 3500
RPM. Using the numbers, that conservative shift occurs at ~3350 RPM with a drop to 2700 in 5th, and a torque loss of ~35.5 lbs.
FUN
Shucks, we're going pretty FAST already, so I've been experimenting with around 5K, which should result in an RPM drop to
~4050 in 5th and a torque loss of 23.5 lbs. Hey, make sure your radar detector's doing its job here!
RACE
I do not know, but imagine 130 fuel cut-off might happen before torque unity is achieved at ~5920 RPMs in 4th, where RPMs
should drop to ~4800 in 5th. I do know I got 115 mph in 5th the other day and was only a little over 5K -- and felt very safe!

Sorry for being so long-winded, but am interested to hear from others on this, since it IS science combined with art! Hoping others
in warmer climates can provide feedback, since I'm battling too many cops and too much snow here...

Here are the ones that I know of:

Peters adds

"the color codes are also in a little papersticker in the trunk and under the hood it is about 1"x2" made of white paper with black letters - you find everything written on it - motorcode, fin, colorcode, transmossioncode ......" 6/17/2005

Yes you can. Nothing goes together better than an iPod and a TT.

The basic way of course is to get a tape adapter and connect it to the stereo that way. You will not get the bast sound but it will work.

The other option would be to get a mini jack installed in the back of your head unit. Jeff Bipes used to this on many TTs and it worked great.

Jake updates: "There are now pictures of my installation in the modification photo gallery" - 4/8/04

Tod adds "You could also get an FM transponder, and it would eliminate any wires." 3/26/2005

Jake updates "Jeff's website has been removed since he stopped doing the service" - 1/20/2006

Aren updates "The best way (Sound Quality wise) to do it is to avoid using the headphone amplifier's output jack. Use a dock connector to utilize the line level output into a proper amplifier (like a head unit with an aux in). There are plenty of kits to dock your ipod and have it mimic a CD changer, and also some head units that will display the ipod info for searching & playing..." - 1/30/2006

David adds "My 2006 TT equipped with an Audi Concert radio (single disc CD) and XM radio apparently can't accommodate an iPod, according to my local installer. One company working on it (Metra at www.wire-tunes.com) via a device called "Axxess" but this morning, said it can't yet be done. The built-in XM radio of the Concert seems to be the sticking point." - 3/6/2006

The Concert radio can be coded for two different Bass/Treble Vehicle-specific tone control slopes. One is for Bose/Concert and the other for Concert only. You can change this setting by recoding the radio module with either a VAG1151/1552 or VWTOOL. The standard coding for a TT w/bose and secondary display is 00517. If you don't have a cd changer, secondary display, etc. this value may vary in the first decimal place (see page 5 of audi tech document on adding a CD-Changer for complete details. URL at end). We are only concerned with the value at the second decimal place (in the example above it is 1 for Bose tone slope). If you have the radio recoded and change the 1 to a 0 (zero), you will enable the other Vehicle-specific tone control.

Once the radio is recoded you will notice the "Bose" missing from the display on powerup. The Bass/Treble range is now +-6 but the adjustment is more dramatic.

I must say, the effect on the Bass is incredible! It may not be a "true" sound in the Bose universe but many will find it an improvement.

Paul adds: "I changed the code in my old TT 4 years ago and the extra boost I got from the bass was superb. I have bought a new TT and need the code again (I have unfortunately forgotten it). Are you saying that the code (in the case of Bose/Concert with CD changer) should be changed from 00517 to 00507? - 4/2/2004

1) Turn on radio and the radio display shows "SAFE", thus the problem.

2) Press the P.Scan and RBDS buttons simultaneously (at the same time) and hold until "1000" is displayed. Release the buttons but Do NOT press buttons again as the radio will think the "1000" is the code.

3) Use Preset buttons 1 through 4 to enter the four-digit code number from your radio card that you got when you bought the car. Preset button 1 corresponds to the first digit, preset button 2 corresponds to the second digit, and so on and so on.

4) Once the code shown on the display is correct you must press the P.Scan and RBDS buttons simultaneously and hold until the word "SAFE" appears in the display again. Once the word "SAFE" appears you can release the buttons.

4) The radio should unlock and be available shortly afterwards.

5) If an incorrect code is entered, the word "SAFE" appears, first flashing and then continuously. You can repeat the above steps to unlock the radio once more, the number of attempts will be shown in the display. If an incorrect code is entered again, you radio will be locked for about one hour. After one hour - the radio must stay on and the key must remain in the ignition lock - if the display goes out, the you can repeat the above procedure to unlock again. The cycle - two attempts, one hour lock-up - still applies.

6) If you lose your radio code, contact your Audi dealer as you are SOL.

http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/audi/radios/symphony.html

No, of course not.

If you are not under warranty, you can take it to any place you want as long as you trust them. Audi techs know the TT better, but if you have someone else take it to them.

You might also want to look at an extended warranty that would cover the costs.

Rob adds "Don't know about the states, but across the pond here in Sunny Blighty, I certainly would advise against going to an Audi Stealer, They don't know one end of a spanner to the other, and some don't even know there own names, so no way would I let them lose on my TT. Better off taking it to a specialist, where the people who work there are passionater about there TT;'s or Audis, and probably know the real odd stuff too, that Audi Main Stealer would never know in a million years.." - 5/18/2006

Sweeney Answers: "I have experienced this with my first TT(180hpQ). But it was usually between 5k-10k miles following last oil change. Cases like this are likely to occur if the car is beat up a lot, e.g. street racing, heavy traffic conditions, etc. If you haven't noticed oil spots in your garage, and you don't notice blue smoke while excellerating, (it would be noticable) it's likely the choice of oil (too thin). Stick with 20/50. "

Seizo adds: "I have a 2001 225 quattro roadster and it does consume oil. I have had to top it up 3 to 4 times in the 2.5 years I've owned it."

Marci adds: "I bought a 2002 225 Quattro Roadster from the dealer (his son drove it for first 2000 miles) I have had to add 1 quart of oil every 2000-2500 miles. After 3 times to the dealer they told me the camshaft seal was leaking. It stopped doing it for approx 6 months before it started up again. They told me it was normal but I find it hard to believe that i have to carry around a quart of oil in my trunk after buying this caliber of a vehicle." - 4/7/04

Mason adds "I am not a member but I would think this information would help many Audi TT owners. I bought a used 2001 Audi TT Quattro 225 hp in June, 2004. Every 1000 miles I had to add one quart of oil and it made me so mad. Luckily my wife's younger brother who is a ASE Master mechanic diagnosed the problem and found out the cause. It was the TURBO CHARGER system eating up the oil.

Through my extended warranty program he replaced it with a brand new TURBO CHARGER and there seems to be no oil burning at all after driving it for 400 miles. I'll find out more when the mileage reaches 1000 or 2000. I promise to feed more information in a near future regarding this problem." - 1/15/2005

Mason adds "I'll take back the comments I made back in Jan 15th. The oil burning continues to happen even after replacing the Turbo Charger. Every 1000 miles I've got to add one quart of synthetic oil. I am so frustrated. Anyone's comment on why it's happenning would be a great help." 2/20/2005

Joe adds " Hi All as far as I'm aware consuming oil every 1000 miles is normal - It says it in the manual (european). I have an Audi TT Coupe 180 2000 and my guys say it is the Turbo and normal so I just live with it ..." 8/12/2006

AutoWeek, February 5, 2001 edition reports,

"Audi is offering free replacement tires for TT and S4 buyers, even if the tire damage is due to potholes. An Audi spokeswoman says Audi took the unusual step after receiving complaints from several owners about tire sidewall bulges and blisters causing loss of tire pressure. Dealers will replace affected tires, which are size 225/45R-17/91Y that came as original equipment on '98 & '99 S4s and '00 & '01 TTs. No accidents have occurred as a result of the tire problem."

There are a few, if not a ton, of books on the Audi TT. See the ones linked below.

The "Century NextStep" seems to work for more than a few people.

Steve sent in the following on 8/28/2003: "This only seems to apply to chid seats and not infant seats (i.e. rearward facing seats for the first 9 months or so)."

Keith adds "ive got two baby seats in the back of my tt one for a 9 mth old and one for a 4 yr old" 5/7/2005

Adrian adds "One thing that has to be considered is the height of the child and the height of the person riding in front of the child. Since I use my seat all the way back, no baby seat fits behind me. My son had to ride behind the passenger seat, but my wife had to slide her seat fore in order not to cramp my son's legs. By the way, we have an european seat, called bebecomfort." - 2/18/2005

There is a section on the official Audi USA site with some technical comparisons between all flavors of TT and the BMW Z3 and Mercedes 320SLK. Very factual, not much Audi "spin". Comparison done by Autosite, so it looks independent.

URL Dead.

• Base Price - $66,000-70,000 (MT est)
• Vehicle Layout - Front engine, AWD, two-door coupe/convertible
• Engine - 2.0L/272hp/258 lb-ft/DOHC/16-valve/I4
• Transmission - 6-speed DSG
• Curb Weight - 3,125 (MT est)
• Wheelbase - 126.0-163.0 in
• Length x Width x Height - 165.2 x 72.4 x 52.9-53.1
• 0-60 mph - 5.2-5.4 sec (mfr)
• EPA City/Hwy Econ - Not yet rated
• CO2 Emissions - Not yet rated
• On Sale In U.S. - Nov-08

Club Members can set up or change their vanity email address by clicking on "Preferences" in the upper-right navigation and then clicking on "Change your Vanity Email settings".

The first time you update your vanity email address it will use your email address you registered with as the email address your vanity email will point to.

Next choose the vanity email address you want and the real email address you want to point it to and click "Update".

It will take up to 48 hours to propagate this change.

This feature is only available to Club Members.

A vanity email is a way for you to show off your Audi TT pride. We will point YourMemberName@audittcca.com (or any of the ones below) to an email address you already have. All email sent to your vanity email address will instantly be forwarded.

Club Members can choose from one of the following domains as their vanity email:

@audittcca.com
@auditt.org
@audittcc.com
@attcca.com
@ttcarclub.com
@ttclubusa.com
@audittcarclub.com
@audittclubusa.com

To update your vanity email address click on the "Email & vanity email preferences" link in "My Preferences">